There are those among us who would count ourselves lucky to have fallen in love at least once in our lives. But twice? It’s impossible for some, miraculous for others. In 2008, The Lo & Behold group’s managing partner Wee Teng Wen and his team first fell in love with a 1930s Ebenezer Chapel at the lush Tanglin Barracks (now known as Dempsey Hill), which now houses The White Rabbit.
Back in the late noughties, the quiet enclave hadn’t yet flourished into the lifestyle and dining hub we’ve come to know and love today. Along came The White Rabbit, a modern European restaurant headed by executive chef Daniel Sia, with former sous chef Benjamin Tan eventually rising through the ranks to become head chef. It soon topped listicles and nabbed awards such as Singapore Experience Awards’ “Best Dining Experience” in 2009, and World Gourmet Summit Awards’ “Best New Restaurant” in 2010. The restaurant served as a beacon for other restaurateurs who were looking to move into the then sleepy district. 
The last 12 years have transformed the world with mammoth milestones such as the rise of the share economy and food delivery alongside it, the advent of Instagram and other social media platforms to follow, meat-free “meats”, and of course, COVID-19. The White Rabbit however, has still remained relevant and top of mind when it comes to destination dining. It’s where diners have fallen in love, said their vows (the Wees included), and celebrated life’s zestiest moments through Halloween parties, Easter brunches, as well as picnic soirees at The Rabbit Hole, the Alice In Wonderland-themed outdoor garden.
But all good things come to an end, too. Earlier this year, The White Rabbit announced that it was saying goodbye to its current form. In its place will be an entirely new concept headed by Odette’s Julien Royer, serving relaxed French cuisine. It’ll be the first time The Lo & Behold Group is closing a concept to open a new one in its place — and like falling in love, the second time comes with the benefit of a playbook of lessons amassed by Wee and his team.
We catch up with Wee before The White Rabbit closes its chapter for renovations from 1 May.
When The White Rabbit opened in 2008, was there an end goal in sight? What did that look like, and how has it changed over the years?
When we opened the restaurant in 2008, our dream was to restore the beautiful chapel to new glory, making it a timeless space where generations of guests could come to celebrate the many joys in life. The dream has not changed since.
Being a people-focused company, how will The Lo & Behold Group ensure that its staff are taken care of through this transition?
We were immediately conscious that the evolution for this space at The White Rabbit would be an emotional and unexpected shift for the team, and made sure to share our thinking and milestones as the decision was made. Our leaders met with each team member to understand their ambitions for their futures with us and have worked closely to make sure that they are advocated for in their next step.
The White Rabbit was the first of many of your concepts designed by integrated design firm Takenouchi Webb. What other long-running relationships with talents and vendors have stood the test of time, and how can restaurants upkeep such strong ties?
With Takenouchi Webb, we’ve since worked on other concepts including Odette, Straits Clan, Esora, Extra Virgin Pizza, Tanjong Beach Club, The Black Swan, and OverEasy.
The last year really tested the industry and brought this to the fore for us with lockdown, dine-in restrictions and interrupted supply chains. Vendor relationships are statements of trust, quality and partnership to deliver the best we can for our guests. We operate in an ecosystem that would be incomplete without them.
Our most recent concept, Clink Clink, is our online bottle shop that launched in August last year. Thanks to the dozens of beverage supplier relationships we have nurtured and grown with over the last 15 years, we are able to offer guests a unique online wine shopping experience found nowhere else. They now get to tap into our wide network of suppliers for sommelier-curated wine bundles at best in class prices. These relationships also allow us to offer a bespoke sommelier service that gives customers priority access to curated, rare and limited edition wines from all over the world.
Out of all the lessons learned over the last 12 years, what would be the top 3 that you would bring over to this new concept?
1. We’ve always believed that hospitality is not a science; it takes a great deal of heart. Creating timeless concepts and delivering thoughtful service has to start with our own people. Over the years, we’ve worked to create an environment where passionate and talented people can thrive and accomplish deeply gratifying things together.
2. We’ve learned to always stay open to new possibilities and outcomes and to be willing to be challenged against the odds. The win lies in the pivot and ability to recover. One example of this was over Circuit Breaker — historically, most of our venues did not offer delivery, however, with the onset of lockdown, we had to pivot to delivery practically overnight. Odette At Home was launched despite the unproven demand for fine dining cuisine on delivery. It ended up seeing some of the strongest numbers on record for Odette.
3. We’ve always held dear the value of staying true to our vision and values over chasing trends. With every concept and campaign, we push ourselves to take the road less travelled; the less obvious or expected route involves an element of excitement as well as risk that is usually well-rewarded.
Lastly, what will you miss the most from The White Rabbit, and what are you most looking forward to in its place?
I will always have treasured memories of my wedding there in 2016, and I will certainly miss the uplifting sense of wonder every time I walked into the space, from the first day we saw it in its original state to when it was a buzzing, lively restaurant over the years. The White Rabbit also played a role in shaping the Dempsey neighbourhood into what it is today, the new concept will no doubt continue to contribute a new energy and perspective that will enrich the community. A special building like this one will always bring its own quiet magic into its next chapter.
The White Rabbit will close on 30 April 2021. To enjoy it while it lasts, book a table here.
